What to do when socialising and training your puppy in new environments
Once your puppy has settled into its new home and learned who's part of the family, it's time to start socialising and introducing them to new environments. This is one of the most important things you'll do, and you can usually begin about a week after bringing your puppy home.
It's important not to wait too long, as the 'socialisation window' closes around 12-16 weeks of age. After this, it becomes much harder for your puppy to bond with and learn to trust new people and experiences.
What's the difference between socialisation and environmental training?
Socialisation means getting your puppy accustomed and comfortable around people and other animals. Environmental training, on the other hand, is about getting them used to different sights, sounds, surfaces, and more.
Active vs. passive training
Taking your puppy to a cafe patio to people-watch is both environmental training (new sights, sounds, and smells) and socialisation (seeing new people pass by), but it's passive in both cases.
Active socialisation involves letting your dog greet new people – children, older adults, someone with a crutch or in a wheelchair, etc. Active environmental training means actively seeking out new environments, like different surfaces, exploring statues, riding a bus, or experiencing traffic and noise.
Explore together
Take your puppy into dog-friendly shops and let them explore all the interesting smells. Visit the vet and enjoy some treats in the waiting room. Perhaps they can briefly say hello to the receptionist or a nurse, who might even take a quick look at your puppy's teeth – then reward them! This makes future vet visits much easier.
Remember, never force your puppy into a situation or environment. This can have the opposite effect, creating negative memories that are hard to overcome. Instead, always ensure your puppy has the choice to walk away if they feel overwhelmed. Start with simpler environments and gradually introduce more challenging ones.
Adapt the training to your puppy's comfort level: a country-dwelling puppy might find the city overwhelming, while a city puppy might find the quiet countryside unnerving.
Meeting new people
The best way to greet an unfamiliar dog is to turn sideways and let them approach at their own pace. If your puppy is overly enthusiastic, you'll need to focus on teaching them to slow down rather than worrying too much about how the person is behaving.
If your puppy is timid, it's crucial to guide people on how to interact. Ask them not to pat from above or on the head, as this can be intimidating. Suggest patting from below or the side, or even just offering treats without direct contact.
People often lean down or sit to get closer to puppies, but for a shy dog, this can feel too intense.
Don't let strangers pick up your puppy, especially smaller breeds. This isn't necessary and can be overwhelming. Ensure that anyone handling your puppy is someone you trust to follow your instructions.
Don't be afraid to say no or redirect interactions if your puppy seems scared or tired, or if you're simply not comfortable at that moment. Your puppy isn't public property; you're responsible for ensuring positive experiences with people and maintaining control. Otherwise, your puppy might feel the need to react by barking or, in the worst case, nipping.
It's best to greet one person at a time. If you're outside a school, for example, and several children approach, ask them to wait a short distance apart so your puppy can greet each child calmly, rather than being swamped.
Meeting other dogs
When socialising with other dogs, follow the same principles: meet one dog at a time, ensure it's a friendly and safe dog before allowing interaction, and keep the meeting brief. Encounters with calm, adult dogs teach your puppy crucial social skills. However, if your puppy is chased or intimidated by unfamiliar dogs, they may develop a lifelong aversion to other dogs.
Always ask the owner if their dog is friendly towards puppies. More importantly, practice reading dog body language to form your own judgment. If you have any doubts about a potential interaction, it's best to decline. There will be plenty of other dogs to meet.
Dogs generally behave better off-leash, but in large open spaces, it's harder to intervene if needed. You MUST step in if your puppy seeks support from you. Keep the other dog away or ask the owner to recall their dog. The old saying 'let the dogs sort it out' is outdated and can be detrimental to your puppy's confidence, potentially for life.
If your dog gets scared, avoid fussing over them. Stay calm and reassuring. Soon after, seek out a similar but less intense situation to help turn the experience into a positive one for your puppy.
