Help your dog overcome their fear of car travel
The most common cause of discomfort when travelling by car is fear, and it's sadly often mistaken for motion sickness. These dogs may also feel nauseous, drool, and vomit. They're often anxious and panting for most of the journey, and in severe cases, may even urinate or defecate during the drive. This fear doesn't resolve on its own and requires regular training. A dog that's scared of cars may shy away from getting in, sit and shiver, and be reluctant to accept treats.
When training for car fear, think of it like this:
It can't be stressed enough that the dog always sets the pace when training for fears. So, pay close attention to what your dog is doing and how they react to your cues to see if they're relaxed in the situation.
Step 1: Getting your dog used to being around the car
Start by getting your dog used to being around the car. Walk towards it, and when your dog stops – whether that's far from the car or right at the tailgate – you stop there too. Give your dog some treats and practise a few tricks before moving away again. Always work at your dog's pace and listen to their signals: if they don't take a treat, you're too close and they're stressed. Repeat this until your dog is completely relaxed at each distance you approach the car. This might mean staying several metres away at first. Before moving to step 2, your dog should be able to relax, respond to cues like 'sit' and 'lie down', and happily accept treats right next to the car.
Step 2: Getting your dog used to getting into the car
With the car switched off, ask your dog to jump in. Reward them for jumping in and for lying down calmly. You can also sit together in the car and just 'be', rewarding them for staying calm. Gradually increase the time they spend in the car by a few minutes at a time. Repeat this many times until your dog happily jumps into the car and is relaxed lying or sitting calmly. If possible, use a separate cue for getting in, like 'jump in' or similar.
Step 3: Getting your dog used to the sound of the engine
Start the car's engine. Repeat steps 1 and 2 with the engine running. Your dog should be relaxed and comfortable both outside the car when the engine is on and when getting into it. Repeat this many times until your dog is completely comfortable.
Step 4: Getting your dog used to driving
Now, drive a few metres and reward your dog if they stay calm. If they get stressed as soon as the car starts moving, backtrack to the previous steps. Gradually increase the distance, a few metres or a few minutes at a time. It's important that your dog associates driving with fun. So, drive short distances and reward your dog by getting out to play (tug, frisbee, ball, etc.) or offering tasty treats, then get back in the car. Drive a bit further and then go for a walk in the woods if your dog enjoys that. Once your dog is used to longer journeys, you can drive to places like dog parks or other enjoyable destinations. In the early stages of car travel, try to ensure that most journeys are to somewhere fun!
Always listen to your dog
If at any point your dog indicates they don't want to get in the car, or stops further away than before, you MUST listen. During training, your dog is in charge. If they say no, it's no. End the training session for the day. This is a crucial boundary that must not be crossed, or you risk damaging your relationship and your training progress. Below, we explain what to do if you can't listen to your dog's 'no' and when a car journey is unavoidable.
What do I do when my dog has to go by car?
During the training period, avoid car journeys if possible. Unpleasant experiences will set back your training and erode the confidence your dog has begun to build. However, daily life sometimes means you have to travel, so here's what to do when a car journey is unavoidable.
If you can't respect your dog's 'no' to car travel, you need to change all the signals around the situation. Have a clear plan for what it will look like when your dog has to travel. This could mean carrying your dog to the boot so they don't see it as a choice, or guiding them by the collar all the way to avoid reinforcing the idea that they have a choice. It can also help to change the environment inside the car for these necessary journeys. You might do your training in a boot crate, then use a seat belt in the back seat for essential trips. Below are some examples of how to help your dog distinguish between training and must-do situations:
You train your dog to jump into the boot crate themselves -> You then carry your dog out and put them in the crate when it's not training time.
You train your dog to jump onto the back seat themselves -> You take your dog by the collar and guide them onto the back seat when it's not training time.
You train your dog to go to the tailgate and put their paws on the car, then be carried into the crate -> You have your dog on a leash and help them into the car by lifting them, rather than requiring them to place their paws on the car.
You train your dog to sit in the boot crate -> You have your dog on a leash and guide them onto the back seat with a car harness when it's not training time.
These are examples of how you can make situations different. It's vital that our dogs can trust us, so never trick them into thinking they have a choice when they don't. Doing so can damage your relationship and your training progress.
